Back in 2012, I embarked on a deep dive into the issue of race within the fashion industry, and the findings were disheartening.
The fashion world has long grappled with issues of racism and lack of diversity, and the case of designer John Galliano in 2011 served as a stark reminder of the industry’s struggle with inclusivity. The prevalence of discrimination within the fashion sphere became glaringly evident following Galliano’s legal repercussions for hurling racist and anti-Semitic insults at individuals.
The incident involving Galliano sparked concerns about the level of racism tolerated within the fashion industry. It also highlighted the lack of ethnic diversity in mainstream fashion, a persistent issue that had been brought to the forefront by various voices within the industry.
I looked Further into Race in Fashion…
Reports on racial representation in fashion, such as those by jezebel.com, underlined the stark underrepresentation of non-white models on the runways.
The statistics from New York’s A/W fashion week in 2008 revealed that 84.8% of models were Caucasian, while only 15.2% represented Black, Asian, and non-Caucasian Latino communities. These figures underscored the pressing need for greater diversity and inclusion within the fashion world.
Renowned model Naomi Campbell’s candid remarks in 2009 further shed light on the industry’s racial disparities. In an interview with Germany’s Glamour magazine, Campbell called out the fashion industry, expressing her dismay at the extreme trend towards blond, blue-eyed models, highlighting the challenges faced by Black models in securing equal opportunities.
Historical Incidents and Ongoing Challenges
Throughout the years, the fashion world has grappled with numerous instances that have highlighted the industry’s struggle with racism and exclusion. From cultural appropriation and lack of runway diversity to high-profile racist gaffes, the fashion narrative has been marred by incidents that underscore the need for tangible change.
Scandals such as Gucci’s knitwear recalling blackface, Prada’s Little Black Sambo bag charm, and Dolce & Gabbana’s anti-Asian comments. These instances not only sparked public outrage but also served as poignant reminders of the industry’s deep-rooted issues with racial insensitivity.
Furthermore, the lack of representation at the decision-making level has perpetuated the systemic challenges. The lack of diverse voices in leadership positions, financiers, and senior-level magazine editors has been a longstanding concern, contributing to the industry’s struggle with genuine inclusivity and equality.
Racism is a Cliché
Back then, I felt like I was bringing up old news and was forced to believe that the industry had changed. However, my personal experiences during that time painted a different picture. I was the only student of colour on my fashion course, and encounters with prejudice and bias left an indelible mark.
I vividly recall the frustration of applying for work experience, only to be met with closed doors and fleeting, dismissive interviews. The pervasive feeling of being instantly judged based on my appearance was a constant presence in my pursuit of opportunities within the industry.
Whenever I mentioned this struggle to others, I was often met with scepticism and dismissiveness. The prevailing sentiment seemed to suggest that the issue lay with me, instead of acknowledging the systemic barriers that hindered my progress. It was a time when bringing up race felt like a cliché. So much so, I scrapped the topic for my dissertation.
Fast Foreword to Race in Fashion in 2024
Fast forward to 2024, and there’s a palpable shift in the fashion world’s approach. The industry is now heavily taking into account the need for diversity and inclusivity. How does it make me feel? In all honesty, I am not sure. The past has left me cautiously hopeful, and I dare to believe that this time around, individuals like myself will be more considered by the fashion world. I hold onto the hope that many others who have been denied opportunities due to their race will find the doors of possibility opening for them.
As I reflect on my personal journey and witness the evolving landscape of the fashion industry, I am reminded of the transformative potential of genuine diversity and inclusion. It’s a journey that demands resilience and hope, and I am cautiously optimistic that the industry’s new direction will pave the way for a more inclusive and equitable future.
Recent Calls for Change and Accountability
The Black Lives Matter movement and the global protests against systemic racism have heightened the scrutiny on the fashion industry’s role as a cultural beacon. Individuals within the industry, including models, stylists, and activists, have been vocal about the need for genuine and meaningful change.
The recent wave of diversity and inclusion hires, including the appointments of Black editors-in-chief at major fashion magazines, represents a step towards broader representation within influential positions. However, the road to genuine inclusivity and equity remains fraught with challenges, as highlighted by the ongoing demands for systemic changes within fashion brands and organizations.
Moreover, the industry’s response to racial justice issues, particularly in the wake of the Black Lives Matter movement, has sparked conversations around the authenticity of brands’ solidarity and their commitment to addressing long-standing racial disparities. The timing of brands’ statements and actions has been scrutinized, with many questioning the genuineness of their newfound vocal support for racial justice.
Looking ahead, the fashion industry must continue to strive for progress, ensuring that diversity and inclusion are not just buzzwords but integral components of its ethos. By fostering a more representative and inclusive landscape, the industry can redefine its narrative, championing authenticity, and celebrating the beauty of diversity.